by idyllic
A different take on the leg lamp from "A Christmas Story", inspired by Sexy Cyborg's underlit skirtand using her body scan as the source of the legs. (yes, this completely ignores the two things she's proudest of - my apologies)
Different "shades" available, although to be truest to Ms. Wu's style, I think the best approach is to use electrical tape stretched as tight as possible and as short as possible. insert winking emoji here
That said, I think the "conventional skirt" (in the first image) looks the best and gives better light, and the "lampshade" skirt stays closer to the one in A Christmas Story.
Designed to be printed in pieces and assembled using short M3 screws. (If you have screws on hand for mounting DVD drives, floppy drives, or 2.5" hard drives into a PC - those are M3 and are the perfect size, so you don't have to go buying hardware) Should not need to be tapped, the size was just right for hand threading. Don't overtighten or it'll strip out.
I printed the hips in clear filament so light actually gets out. Legs were printed in PLA wood filament for closer to skin tone, with the shoes painted after the fact using an acrylic paint pen. (Wedge shoes chosen for optimal route of internal wiring) The base was printed in black PLA for the contrast. Skirts were printed in a variety of filaments for different effects.
If you scale the model larger, the M3 screw holes will be too big, but you could probably scale the model up by 133% and use M4 screws instead. Or scale it to whatever and glue it together. As it is, it stands around 170mm tall finished, so it's not a desk lamp.
I'm still not 100% happy with the T10 light and the fixture is a bit hackish, so if you want to make your own LED holder, I've included a STEP file.
Strongly suggested to print the hips with clear filament otherwise this won't be much of a lamp. Print upright, no supports needed.
I printed the legs upright and used a large brim - about 12mm - to make sure they stayed adhered to the print bed. You could print them upside-down but then might have issues with the toes being overhangs.
The base is in the proper orientation and has provision for a barrel plug for a 5.5mm jack.
M3 screws fit in all the appropriate holes and everything should line up right.
The T10 lamp holder should print without supports. I wired it up using solid core 24g wire. Stick the wires into the holes in the print from the lamp side, then fold them over on the top and cut off the excess. Any T10 LED should work just fine as long as it fits. This part then sits on top of the hips piece, with the wires running down through the right leg.
Most skirts can be printed without supports as they are oriented with the top on the print bed. Use a vase-mode (spiral) print for a thin shade that lets more light through, or use more shells for a more opaque shade. The one shade that prints upright is the lampshade, and that will likely require supports for the center.
