by okMOK 

So I was going through some of my old stuff and cleaning out some old prints from my workshop and I came across some of these models I had printed some 2 years ago. What actually happened back then was I was learning to make some video games or online renders and had a ton of these weird and fancy looking 3d models (Mostly free I guess ......) and other software. I thought about trying to print some of these models with my 3d printer so I picked some fancy ones (clearly a bad move by a 3d printing newbie). Most of the models, of course, were too complex and marvelously posed hence unprintable. I know because I tried .... darn! just remembering the troubles is making me loose confidence...again.. :((
Anyways so the models which I did manage to clean and make work were printed and stashed in a cabinet somewhere at the back of my workshop. Since I have now started to post my models and makes I decided why not try to share some of these with the community. So here they are, for your printing and hair pulling pleasure (lol don't worry much these are tested as shown in images). Do try to print them and share a make also you can ask if there is any problem. Good Luck

CALlie here is my special model as you might have noticed from the price tag. This is because this was the first proper complete success of converting a game or render model to not only 3D print but 3D print beautifully (IMO). By that I mean this model needs very little support, can be easily and quickly printed, has sufficient detail to keep it interesting but not overwhelming and has good "separation" of features to allow nice post print finishing.

Get it on :https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/art/callie-the-cross-armed-lady
or search my id 'okMOK' on cults.com

By you guys buying this I consider it an appreciation of my work and maybe it will encourage me to restart (and retry) making models like these for the future... among other designs that I have planned :)
Thank You.

Print Settings

Printer:

DIY

Rafts:

Doesn't Matter

Supports:

Yes

Resolution:

0.12

Infill:

10-15%

Filament_brand:

Generic

Filament_color:

Skin PLA, Blue ABS

Filament_material:

PLA, ABS

Notes:

You can print at fine resolutions and hopefully it will turn out great. The blue one in the pics was printed in ABS @ 0.12 resolution and the light colored one was printed in PLA @ 0.12. I used 2 perimeters with 10-15% infill you can use whatever seems suitable to you. The PLA model has been sanded on the body parts by gradually increasing the sandpaper grit. The skirt and hair was left as is. I tried sanding the face also but it started getting damaged so I left that also (model was printed at a small scale). After sanding I covered the the model, except the skirt, with painters tape and spray painted the dress (I only had silver color at the time :( ). For the hair I just used a black permanent marker and it kinda worked out I think. So, there are multiple files but 3 Basic 'configurations' if you may. There is a Low Poly (-LP postfix and untested) set. This was re-meshed to fix some ultra-fine errors which I assume very few of you would have noticed only during gcode preview and not at all in the final print off the bed. Second is the normal set (printed as seen in the pics). My actual files used for printing are in .3mf format but some people have trouble printing that format so the same files are converted to .stl (look at the postfix tag) The 3 basic configurations are : 1-Full Model unsliced(optional wBase) [Manual Supports NEEDED] 2-Sliced model to help with bed adhesion or very Large prints. (Do it :D I wanna see....) [MANUAL SUPPORTS NEEDED] 3-Sliced model with MeshMixer support (-prints in the pics-). Sadly this was only generated on the lower torso/body part so YOU WILL need to use supports on the upper torso/body (mainly the arms, chin and perhaps the nose if model is large enough) Optional (BUT IMPORTANT INFO)- Model with base because the full model does not fully touch the bed so you have to slightly lower the position of the model below the heat bed (leveling off the imbalance of shoes) or use the model with base. There is also a separate base which you can try gluing to the feet of the models. After printing the sliced models, use your preferred adhesion method (glue or acetone weld for abs) to attach the two halves together.